![]() ![]() It was a sloppy but flavoursome dish.Įx-Montreal chef Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly is turning out maple-and-soy salmon heads for New Yorkers at his popular new New York izakaya, Chez Sardine. Kazuo Atkutsu’s guillotined Atlantic salmon was marinated in soy, grilled and dressed up with a festive splatter of taste and texture representing a good part of the repertoire of the Japanese pantry, and few add-ons besides. And it was around a year previous that I tucked into a full salmon head at a quirky downtown Montreal izakaya named Kazu. That bluefish head was on the John Dory menu in the spring. Chef April Bloomfield did not get her Michelin stars for nothing.īut neither is she responsible for this relatively new culinary trend of whole-fish, fang-to-fin dining. The package was enriched by crisp-fried discs of sunchoke and brightened with a scattering of the pods and sprouts of sugar snap peas, and a good lashing of peppery olive oil. Its skin was crisp and the flesh beneath was moist and oily. Boston bluefish run large, so the head had been split lengthwise, very generously salted and then roasted. To be sure, it was a fine fish head-about as irresistible as they come. “Eat them up, yum!” And then-most uncharacteristically-she did. “ Fish heads, fish heads, roly-poly fish heads,” she sang softly, serenading the morsel of Boston bluefish on the end of her fork. Or has her singing one-for in this instance the diner seated at the counter of the John Dory Oyster Bar in Lower Manhattan was my wife. ![]() The latest chapter in the adventurous western gourmand’s ongoing quest to catch up with the Third World has him singing a rather strange song.
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